Another great source of information are karting shops in your area. See the main page of OVKA sponsors list on the right hand side.
It is probably best to visit several kart tracks and races before you invest any money into any equipment. Watch the races, check out the many classes of karting, chat to the people at the track. If you want to actually drive a kart and learn the basics of racing, a karting school might be a great choice. There are quite a few, and the kart-shops should be able to tell you where to find them, or you may just look for them on the Internet.
The
beauty of karting is the simplicity of the vehicle. You don't need a big pit crew, in fact, you can go karting all by yourself. You don't
need an expensive transporter, since a kart can fit in the back of a van or a pickup-truck. Some people even just tie it on the roof of their
sedans, or cram it into a hatch-back. You don't need a whole lot of tools either, and if you are skilled enough, almost all of the
maintenance can be done by yourself. Only the most complex maintenance item, engine rebuilding, is usually done by specialized engine builders.
If you compare the costs of the season in karting with the cost of going racing in an open-wheel car, for example Formula Ford, or one of the school series races, you will find that often the cost of a single car race weekend would pay for an entire season in karting! Now consider that you can just take your kart to the track whenever you feel like it, and you will see that there is no other form of motor racing which will give you as much seat time for the same, low amount of money.
2. SAFETY
Nevertheless, most clubs will have either an actual ambulance on stand-by during a race, or at least have medically trained personnel present.
An
abrasion resistant karting suit is needed. An overall is preferred,
rather than separate pants and jacket, since the jacket can 'roll up'
and expose some skin in case one slides over the asphalt at full speed.
Sliding over the ground with exposed skin can lead to nasty cases of so
called 'road rash'. A good suit can be had for some $200 to $500, or so.
Prices are certainly open ended again.
Next,
you will need gloves and shoes. You can get specialized karting gloves
and boots, which also provide for a certain amount of abrasion
resistance. However, since hands and feet most likely will not have
heavy and prolonged contact to the road-surface in case of an accident,
abrasion resistance is somewhat less important here. So, some people
simply wear sneakers. However, sneakers tend to have relatively thick
soles, which does not really give you enough feel. If you don't want to
pay for purpose made karting shoes, give wrestling shoes a try! They
look almost exactly as racing shoes, and will provide a good feel. The
gloves should be made from thin leather or some other sturdy material.
Some people simply wear their Mechanix gloves in a race. Shoes and
gloves made for general purpose auto racing look pretty much exactly as
those made for karting, but include fire-resistance features, usually in
the form of Nomex material. Again, fire-resistance is not necessary for
karting, so it is not required to spend the extra money that this may
cost you.
Some
karting organizations require you to wear a neck brace or neck support.
This is a stiff foam ring, which you put around your neck and on top of
which the bottom of the helmet loosely rests. If you should get flung
out of the kart and land upside-down on the ground, it is intended to
prevent the neck from twisting in unhealthy ways. It is an extremely (!)
good idea to wear such a neck support, even if the race organizer
should not mandate it.
Also
usually not mandated (but required for drivers under 12 year old), but
very highly recommended, is a rib protector. These are stiff vests,
often with special plastic plates or ribs worked into the material,
which are worn under the karting suit. As the name implies, they are
intended to prevent injuries to your ribs. Since you won't wear a
seat-belt in the kart, your body can press against the side edges of the
seat in every curve. Hitting a curb or being involved in a collision
can cause a strong and sudden jolt, which can easily injure or even
break a rib. Some karts can even generate such a high cornering force
that just driving through a curve can generate enough force to break a
rib, if you should rest against a relatively small point on the seat
edge. For all these reasons, a good rib protector really is a must.
3. TECHNICAL
Oh, and don't forget to bring some old towels or paper-towels and a good hand-soap which can get rid of oil on your fingers. Nothing more yucky than just having fiddled around on the oily chain and then being forced to slip those same dirty, grimy hands into your driving gloves...
You
probably always want to bring a few meters of extra fuel line, break
line, throttle cable and electrical cable. Those things can get tangled
up and torn, sometimes the hoses stiffen over time and need replacing
anyway, so it's a good idea to have some of those things around. For the
same reason, some spare break fluid might be a good idea. During
collisions, it's easily possible to bend a tie-rod, so it's a good idea
to have some spare rods. The bearings for the wheels can get worn out
over time, so one might consider bringing some extra bearings.
Engines
are complex and can break either all on their own (it does happen) or
more likely through accidental abuse. Most people will not necessarily
have the budget to always bring a spare engine, though. So, if you have
one, count yourself lucky. A spare chain is always a good idea, however,
since that can break during a race or while working on it. Of course, a
set of spare spark-plus is necessary, simply because plugs can get
'fouled up', or simply become too old and used.
If you need to replace a bent break rotor, axle, steering column or even chassis, you probably have been in a severe enough accident that warrants going home and carefully examining yourself and the kart anyway.
For
that reason, a kart is designed to actually lift the inside rear tire
off the ground in a curve, effectively making it a three-wheeled vehicle
when cornering! This solves the scrubbing and handling problem one
would otherwise experience.
The
lifting of the inside rear is accomplished through chassis twist and a
specially designed front-end geometry. In a car, the chassis is designed
to be as stiff as possible, allowing the suspension to handle all
weight transfer issues and keeping all wheels in contact with the
ground. In a kart, the chassis is intended to flex, allowing the inside
wheel to be lifted off the ground in a corner.
The
flexing of the chassis is accomplished via utilization of the
'centrifugal force' which applies to the relatively high center of
gravity of the kart, in effect 'tipping' it to the outside of the curve.
The front-end geometry of a kart is designed so that during a curve it tends to lower the inside front-wheel and raise the outside front-wheel. This contributes to the tipping motion of the kart chassis during a curve and thus is the second major contributor to the lifting of the inside rear-wheel.
An article explaining a simple method to find out the current stall-speed of your centrifugal clutch can be found here.
4. DRIVING
Also, many karts only have a break on the rear axis. Thus, the braking can usually not be as heavy as in a car, which also has front-brakes.
5. MAINTENANCE
You can either buy screws, bolts and pins already pre-drilled, which is very expensive, or you can try to drill the necessary holes yourself, which is not necessarily trivial. There are some nice tools available, but also some very effective low-cost methods, one of which is described here.
After
installing the chain back on the kart, spray a proper engine
lubrication on both the inside and outside of the chain, while slowly
turning the rear wheels, so that all parts of the chain will be sprayed.
Note that you should wait a while before firing up the engine, after
spraying the chain. The reason is that the lubricating particles of the
chain-lube are actually carried on some other substances, which allow
the lubricating substances to coat the chain and penetrate between the
rollers and pins. These carrier-substances, which make the entire
lube-mixture nice and slippery, should be given a chance to evaporate
first. Otherwise the lubricating-substances will fling off the chain
just as easily as they got onto it, when the engine starts up and the
chain starts spinning. For that reason, it is a good idea to re-lube the
chain right after each run during a race day, so that there is some
time elapsing before the next outing. The fact that the chain is still
quite warm after you just completed a run also aids in the proper
penetration of lubricating material into all the nooks and crannies of
the chain.
Taking apart a chain and putting it back together again is usually accomplished with a tool called the chain breaker. It is a good tool, but it can also ruin some links of your chain and can cause some frustration if not used right. You can find an article about the correct use of the chain breaker here.
Clean the kart carefully. Only when you clean everything you will be able to see smaller cracks or damage.
Take care of the chain, as described earlier.
Lower
the air pressure in the tires, so that they don't sit for prolonged
times fully inflated. Some people also wrap shrink-wrap around their
tires, so that the substances which keep the rubber soft do not
evaporate over time and stay in the rubber instead.
Courtesy of:
Nelson
Merlo - Stephen Hutchinson - Blin - Jeff Deskin - Jayne Kamin-Oncea -
Sean Buur - Bill Kistler - Blair Hartsfield - Clare Weaver Ekartingnews.com